03 Jul 2013
From Masters of the Grilling Universe, by George Yatchisin
Originally appeared in the Santa Barbara Independent, July 3, 2013
Pro-Am Vegetarian Plate
Winner: Edie Robertson
Dish: Flame-Grilled Seitan and Local Pistachio “Steaks”
Since we started this showdown in 2010, there’s been only one year that Edie Robertson didn’t win something and that’s because we invited her to be a judge in 2011. Otherwise, this private chef, who’s perhaps best known for her years at the Sojourner Café, has always wowed the judges.
This time, she got nothing but perfect scores for her Flame-Grilled Seitan and Local Pistachio “Steaks”, which are injected with farmers’ market chimichurri and Drake Family Farms’ garlic chèvre, plus grilled seasonal veggies and avocado purée served stacked with gingered Hollister Brewing Company’s At Dawn Beer and balsamic tar, mango-passion fruit coulis, and micro greens.
“Edie’s seitan burger was superb, a perfect balance of crunchy pistachios and meaty seitan,” raved judge Fontaine. “It didn’t even need a sauce because the creamy goat cheese melded all the flavors together into one euphoric patty. But the balsamic tar and mango-passion fruit coulis gave the dish acidity and sweetness to make you swoon. Her presentation was also superb, with fresh basil, lavender, sunflowers, and cloth napkins.”
As a leader of Santa Barbara’s Slow Food Convivium and veteran of the Food Network’s series Extreme Chef, Robertson is fazed by very little, even grilling without meat. Indeed, vegetarian cuisine is “almost second nature” to her, as Robertson’s clients expect healthy foods without a loss of flavor.
“I roast and grind my own spice blends, so that gives a big boost to the flavor, along with using fresh herbs and roasted nuts whenever possible,” said Robertson. “I have learned by trial and error how to create dishes that have a satisfying mouthfeel by manipulating the tofu or seitan so it has a pleasing texture that goes well with fresh vegetables, ground nuts, and fresh and roasted spices.”
What’s her advice for home grillers? Practice makes perfect, but remember to clean your grills with heat and vegetable oil before cooking and don’t turn your meat too quickly. “Be brave,” said Robertson. “I think everything tastes better when it is licked by the fire.”
28 Jun 2012
From The Sips and Sears of Summer, by George Yatchisin
Originally appeared in the Santa Barbara Independent, June 28, 2012
Dish: Flame-Grilled Pasilla Chilies Filled with Mexican-Style Seitan, Vegan Ranchero Sauce, and Baby Red Potato Salad
Best known locally for once co-owning the Sojourner Cafe, private chef/caterer Edie Robertson is no stranger to our contest, having won the best entree award in 2010 and been a judge in 2011. But she was most pleased by our 2012 decision to feature a vegetarian category for the first time. “The possibilities are endless,” she said, “and vegetarians need not feel left out during the summer’s BBQ season.”
Robertson clearly knows the drill, as her seitan-stuffed chilis actually achieved our first perfect score ever. “It has got rave revues from my private-chef clients, so I felt confident about that dish,” she admitted. “Plus the fresh roasted tomatillo salsa, smoky ranchero sauce, and freshly made corn tortillas added a nice touch and flavor to the whole dish. It was a great compliment to hear Doug say he could eat like this every day!”
Robertson (no relation to Aaron, by the way) also offered a few secrets: She roasts all of her spice blends to deliver a “richer, more nutty flavor” and pulses the seitan in a food processor, which makes it “so close to ground beef.” As for cooking tempeh or tofu on the grill, Robertson suggested buying the firmest available, marinating for at least an hour, and then, “Start like you would with any meat: high heat first to sear the outside, and wait to turn them over until they have a nice dark sear or they will stick. The cooking time, of course, is much shorter.” As for straight produce, Robertson explained, “I think any vegetable on an open flame beats any other style of cooking. If you have delicate or smaller-sized vegetables, use a vegetable grill basket — you will get the great flavor without losing them through the slats. And don’t be shy with bold spice blends that you would normally use on meat. They work well on vegetables, as well.”
Flame-Grilled Pasilla chilies stuffed with Mexican-Style Seitan
- 4 large pasilla chilies
- 3 packages plain seitan, pulsed in food processor or blender to look like ground meat
- 1 small brown onion, small diced
- 2 small jalapeños, de-seeded and finely diced
- 3 cloves minced garlic
- 1/2 cup fresh or canned corn kernels
- 3 Tbsp. cumin powder
- Pinch of cayenne pepper, or more to taste
- 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
- 1 Tbsp. kosher sea salt
- 1/2 cup enchilada sauce
- 1 cup mixed jack and cheddar cheese, queso fresco for topping
Wash and pat dry chilies. Coat with a little olive oil, and place on hot BBQ. With tongs, gently turn them every 5-8 minutes until all the skin has darkened and peels away easily. Let cool a few minutes, and wrap them loosely in plastic wrap so air doesn’t get in. After about 20 minutes, unwrap and peel skin off (some can remain). Cut a small slit in the chili lengthwise. Pull out seeds, and rinse with cold water inside. Place open side down on paper towel to drain.
Cook onions, jalapeños, and garlic in small amount of oil until translucent; add the rest of the filling ingredients.
Put a little of the jack/cheddar mixture inside of the chili, fill with seitan mixture until chili is stuffed to top, and add a little more of the cheese mixture. On a grilling screen or piece of foil, place the stuffed peppers on low-heat grill covered loosely with foil until cheese melts and seitan filling is heated through. Plate and sprinkle with a little queso fresco.